When we first moved here, one of the things we were excited about were the world-class museums of New York. This is dorky, I realize, but Smith and I like dimly lit museum interiors, smelling of marble and damp and very old wood. But we have a toddler, and Gus is not someone, we've learned, that you can hang out with in a museum. You may push him through the echoey corriders in a stroller if he happens to be sleeping, or you may constantly shush him when he awakes, or you may grab back his chubby hands as they reach longingly for one priceless work of art after another--but the experience is not enviable.
Of course he savors the dioramas at the American Museum of Natural History (but who doesn't?) and he can handle MOMA for about an hour if we stick to the rooms full of abstract paintings, with those alarming colors and dressy brushstrokes and wall-sized canvasses. And in some moods Gus is precocious about recalling the names of certain sculptures he finds fascinating--usually, a particular life-sized figure of a trudging man by the elevators. Still, in general it's best to leave him home with one of us, while the lucky one ventures forth to visit the museum solo.
Often, though, we feel dissatisfied with this. And so we have devised a relatively simple scheme to make a space for our artistic temperaments. One goes to the museum and rushes through in less than an hour (or less!) while the other one awaits, scowling and impatient, at a playground in Central Park.
Then switch.
It's not that bad in theory--who doesn't love the park! Jesus!--but it is an oddly excruciating experience. Once, at the Frick, the Goya show sold out during my hour, and I felt pitifully disappointed, knowing Smith would get to see the exhibition an hour later when there was space. I returned to the playground, mildly buzzing from the vision of my favorite painting at the Frick (John the Baptist, a strange desert scene, skulls), but ultimately feeling lost. I never did get to see the Goya's, and while I trust that I will surely have more experiences in front of great paintings, I doubt that the Goya's will appear again en masse in a room I could visit were it not for my toddler.
And so, on my birthday last week, Smith offered this: a trip to the Neue Galerie solo. I leaped out of bed and readied myself. I skipped to the subway and read a book while stifling giggles of pleasure, and delight. Oh, to be alone.
I couldn't believe how beautiful the Galerie was from the outside--all understated limestone--but throwing open the imposing iron gate I met a man in some sort of blue uniform who advised me the galleries were closed on Wednesdays.
"Oh," I said calmly, as my lips trembled with rage. "Okay."
It all worked out fine, however. I simply strode over to the Met. This being the other incredible, astonishing fact of life in New York--that one can just go elsewhere if one's hopes have been utterly dashed.
So I entered the museum, and checked my coat to maximize the feeling of lightness, of buoyancy, and I traipsed through my favorite Greco-Roman galleries, pausing to admire the amphoras and kraters.


Then, aware of the time--I had to get back to Brooklyn for an early dinner with Gus and Smith--I made a bee-line to the German exhibit, a showcase of paintings from 1920's Berlin. It was decay, and decadence of every type--extremely gorgeous yet horrific stuff--and I fell in love with some paintings.
Afterwards, I continued a project I started while I was living temporarily in Cambridge, Massuchesetts two summers ago (before the hurricane, before we moved here), and decided it might be interesting to take photos inside women's restrooms in museums, which are usually located in the basement. And so, at the risk of committing some grave act of exposure, I give you a pretty row of toilet stalls at the Met.

Making my way back to Park Slope, on the cold hushed streets, on the subway, I felt a kind of peaceful but not uncomplicated sense of accomplishment, wonder, mortality.
It was a good birthday, a really good birthday.